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Often times we encounter vehicles with "bad" clutches. The temptation is to change the clutch. An easy fix since you don't lose the Freon, don't have to change the drier and don't have to bother with a vacuum and recharge. Right? Well, not always.

Remember that a bad clutch is usually the result of some other problem. Often times, clutch removal and installation requires special tools whose cost will outweigh the associated savings over the purchase of a complete compressor. Also be aware that improper clutch installation will destroy it and possibly the compressor.

1. Bad Coil - See discussion titled "The coil is faulty" above. If the coil is bad and you are confident there is no electrical problem causing it i.e. - low or high voltages - it may be feasible to change it provided that the coil is available, easily identifiable and readily accessible for removal.
2. Bad Pulley Bearing - A common error in this instance is to erroneously identify the pulley bearing as the source of the noise when it is coming from another component or from the compressor itself. If the bearing is noisy when the belt is removed and the pulley is spun by hand you can be sure it is bad. Otherwise, be very wary of this diagnosis. If the bearing is seized the possibility of its having damaged the front of the compressor or being next to impossible to remove from the pulley housing is very real. For those reasons, we recommend changing the compressor unless you are a reasonably well equipped technician and capable of recognizing a bad compressor front.
3. Burned Drive Plate or Hub - Usually indicative of a seized compressor or pulley bearing. Compressor, drier and orifice tube (if apropos) should be changed and the CAUSE of the condition determined. Usually an overcharge, a defective electric fan or fan clutch, or a restriction in the system is the cause.

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